02、吸水性
吸水(shui)(shui)性(xing)就是(shi)吸濕的(de)能力,它(ta)通(tong)常用回潮(chao)率來表示。纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)吸水(shui)(shui)性(xing)是(shi)指干(gan)燥(zao)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)在(zai)溫度(du)為70℉(相(xiang)當于(yu)21℃),相(xiang)對濕度(du)為65%的(de)標(biao)準條件(jian)下(xia)的(de)空氣中吸收(shou)(shou)水(shui)(shui)分的(de)百(bai)分數。易(yi)吸水(shui)(shui)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)稱(cheng)(cheng)為親水(shui)(shui)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)。所有(you)(you)天然(ran)動植物纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)和(he)兩種人造纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)——粘膠纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)和(he)醋(cu)酯(zhi)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)是(shi)親水(shui)(shui)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)。那些吸水(shui)(shui)有(you)(you)困難或只能吸收(shou)(shou)少量(liang)水(shui)(shui)分的(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)稱(cheng)(cheng)做疏水(shui)(shui)性(xing)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)。除(chu)粘膠纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)、Lyocell纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)和(he)醋(cu)酯(zhi)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)以外,所有(you)(you)人造纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)都是(shi)疏水(shui)(shui)性(xing)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)。玻璃纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)則根(gen)本不吸水(shui)(shui),其他纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)通(tong)常只有(you)(you)4%或更(geng)低的(de)回潮(chao)率。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)吸水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)影響其(qi)許多方面的(de)(de)應用(yong),包括:a) 皮膚舒適(shi)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):由(you)于吸水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)差,汗液的(de)(de)流動會引起冷而(er)濕的(de)(de)感覺。b) 靜電(dian)(dian)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):伴隨著疏(shu)(shu)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)會發生(sheng)衣服粘著和(he)冒火花等問(wen)題,因為(wei)幾(ji)乎沒(mei)有水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)分來幫助疏(shu)(shu)散累積在(zai)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)表面的(de)(de)帶電(dian)(dian)粒子(zi),灰(hui)塵也(ye)因為(wei)靜電(dian)(dian)而(er)被(bei)帶到纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)上并粘附其(qi)上。c) 水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)洗后(hou)尺寸穩定性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)洗后(hou),疏(shu)(shu)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比親(qin)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)收(shou)縮(suo)(suo)要(yao)小,纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)很少膨(peng)脹(zhang),這(zhe)是(shi)(shi)織物收(shou)縮(suo)(suo)的(de)(de)原因之一。d) 去污性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):很容(rong)易從親(qin)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)中去除污漬,因為(wei)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)會把清潔劑和(he)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)同(tong)時吸入。e) 拒水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):親(qin)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)通(tong)(tong)常要(yao)進行較多的(de)(de)拒水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)耐(nai)用(yong)后(hou)處理,因為(wei)這(zhe)種化學處理可(ke)以使這(zhe)些纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)拒水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)更好。f) 褶皺回(hui)復性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing):疏(shu)(shu)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)通(tong)(tong)常擁(yong)有較好的(de)(de)褶皺回(hui)復性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing),特別是(shi)(shi)經過洗燙之后(hou),因為(wei)它(ta)們不吸水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)、不膨(peng)脹(zhang)并在(zai)褶皺狀態下干(gan)燥。
03、化學作用
在紡(fang)織品加(jia)工(如印染(ran)、后整(zheng)理)和家(jia)庭(ting)/專業護理或(huo)清洗(如用(yong)肥皂、漂白粉和干洗溶劑等)過程(cheng)(cheng)中(zhong)(zhong),纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)一(yi)般需(xu)與化(hua)(hua)學(xue)品接觸(chu)。化(hua)(hua)學(xue)品的(de)(de)種(zhong)類、作用(yong)強(qiang)度以及作用(yong)時間決定了對纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)影響(xiang)程(cheng)(cheng)度。了解(jie)化(hua)(hua)學(xue)品對不同(tong)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)影響(xiang)是(shi)很重要(yao)的(de)(de),應為(wei)它(ta)直接與清洗中(zhong)(zhong)所需(xu)要(yao)的(de)(de)護理有關。纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)對化(hua)(hua)學(xue)品有不同(tong)的(de)(de)反(fan)應。舉(ju)個(ge)例子,棉(mian)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)抗酸性相對較低(di),而(er)耐堿性則很好。另外,棉(mian)織物經過化(hua)(hua)學(xue)樹脂免燙整(zheng)理后會(hui)丟失少許(xu)的(de)(de)強(qiang)力(li)。
04、覆蓋性
覆(fu)蓋(gai)性(xing)是指填(tian)充某一范圍的能力(li)。粗纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維或卷曲(qu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維比細(xi)、直纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維制成(cheng)的紡織(zhi)(zhi)覆(fu)蓋(gai)效果好(hao)。其織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)暖和、手感豐滿(man),而(er)且(qie)只需要較少(shao)的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維即可織(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)。羊毛是冬季服(fu)裝中(zhong)廣泛(fan)使(shi)用的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維,因為它的卷曲(qu)給織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)提供了優良的覆(fu)蓋(gai)性(xing),并在(zai)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)中(zhong)形成(cheng)大量的靜止空氣,這些靜止空氣將(jiang)外部的冷(leng)氣隔絕。而(er)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維覆(fu)蓋(gai)的有效性(xing)取決于其斷面形狀、縱向構造(zao)和重量。
05、彈性
彈性是指在拉力(li)(li)作(zuo)用下增加長度(延長)和(he)釋(shi)放外力(li)(li)之(zhi)后恢復(fu)(fu)到巖石狀態(恢復(fu)(fu))的(de)(de)(de)能力(li)(li)。當外力(li)(li)作(zuo)用在纖(xian)維或織物上時的(de)(de)(de)伸(shen)長能使人感到衣服(fu)更加舒適,并且所(suo)引起的(de)(de)(de)接縫應力(li)(li)也(ye)比(bi)較(jiao)小。同時也(ye)有提高(gao)斷裂強度的(de)(de)(de)趨勢(shi)。 完全恢復(fu)(fu)可(ke)幫助在肘管(guan)或膝部織物松(song)(song)垂的(de)(de)(de)產(chan)生,從而防止服(fu)裝產(chan)生松(song)(song)弛變形。能伸(shen)長至少100%的(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)維稱為彈性纖(xian)維。斯潘德克斯纖(xian)維(Spandex也(ye)叫(jiao)(jiao)萊卡,我國叫(jiao)(jiao)氨(an)綸)和(he)橡膠纖(xian)維就屬于(yu)這(zhe)類纖(xian)維。在拉長后,這(zhe)些(xie)彈性纖(xian)維幾乎(hu)可(ke)以(yi)有力(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)恢復(fu)(fu)到其原始長度。
06、環境條件
環(huan)(huan)境條(tiao)件對纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)的(de)(de)影響(xiang)各有不(bu)同。纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)及最終的(de)(de)織物對曝(pu)光、貯存(cun)等(deng)如何反應是(shi)非常(chang)重要(yao)的(de)(de)。羊(yang)毛(mao)服(fu)裝在儲存(cun)的(de)(de)時候(hou)需(xu)要(yao)防蟲蛀,因(yin)為它(ta)們容易被羊(yang)毛(mao)蛀蟲侵食。尼龍和絲綢長期(qi)暴露(lu)在陽光下,強度會下降,所以它(ta)們通(tong)常(chang)不(bu)用來(lai)制成窗簾和門窗。棉纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)很容易發霉,因(yin)此(ci)它(ta)不(bu)能長時間存(cun)放在潮濕的(de)(de)環(huan)(huan)境里。
07、可燃性
可燃(ran)性(xing)是(shi)(shi)(shi)指(zhi)物體點(dian)燃(ran)或(huo)燃(ran)燒的(de)(de)能力。這是(shi)(shi)(shi)一個很重要(yao)的(de)(de)特(te)(te)性(xing),因為人們的(de)(de)生活總是(shi)(shi)(shi)被(bei)(bei)各種各樣的(de)(de)紡織品(pin)所環繞。我們知道服裝或(huo)者室(shi)內家具(ju),由于其可燃(ran)性(xing),對消費(fei)者會引起嚴重的(de)(de)傷(shang)害并造(zao)成重大(da)的(de)(de)物質(zhi)損失。纖(xian)維(wei)通常分為易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)的(de)(de)、不(bu)(bu)易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)的(de)(de)和(he)阻(zu)燃(ran)的(de)(de):易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)纖(xian)維(wei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)指(zhi)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)(yi)被(bei)(bei)點(dian)燃(ran)并會持續燃(ran)燒的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei);不(bu)(bu)易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)纖(xian)維(wei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)指(zhi)有相對較高的(de)(de)燃(ran)燒點(dian),燃(ran)燒速(su)度也比(bi)較慢(man),在(zai)撤離燃(ran)燒源后會自行(xing)熄(xi)滅的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei);阻(zu)燃(ran)纖(xian)維(wei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)指(zhi)不(bu)(bu)會被(bei)(bei)燃(ran)燒的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)。易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)纖(xian)維(wei)可通過整理或(huo)者改變纖(xian)維(wei)參量來制成阻(zu)燃(ran)纖(xian)維(wei)。舉(ju)例而言,常規滌(di)綸(lun)是(shi)(shi)(shi)易(yi)(yi)(yi)燃(ran)的(de)(de),但特(te)(te)雷(lei)維(wei)拉(la)(Trevira)聚酯經過處理后,具(ju)有阻(zu)燃(ran)性(xing)。
08、柔軟性
柔(rou)軟性(xing)是指(zhi)纖維(wei)易于重(zhong)復彎曲而不斷裂(lie)的(de)(de)性(xing)能。柔(rou)軟的(de)(de)纖維(wei)如(ru)醋酯纖維(wei)能制成懸(xuan)垂性(xing)好的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)和服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。而剛性(xing)的(de)(de)纖維(wei)如(ru)玻璃(li)纖維(wei)就不能用于制作服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang),但(dan)可用在(zai)(zai)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾用的(de)(de)相對(dui)較(jiao)硬(ying)挺的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)上(shang)。通(tong)常(chang)纖維(wei)越細,懸(xuan)垂性(xing)越好。柔(rou)軟性(xing)也影響面料的(de)(de)手感(gan)。盡管經(jing)常(chang)要(yao)求織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)懸(xuan)垂性(xing)好,但(dan)有(you)時也需(xu)要(yao)比較(jiao)硬(ying)挺的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)。例如(ru),在(zai)(zai)帶有(you)披風的(de)(de)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(衣服(fu)掛(gua)在(zai)(zai)肩膀(bang)上(shang)并(bing)向外(wai)翻(fan)出)上(shang),使用較(jiao)硬(ying)挺的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)以達到所需(xu)要(yao)的(de)(de)外(wai)形。
09、手感
手感(gan)(gan)是(shi)(shi)指觸摸纖維(wei)、紗線(xian)(xian)(xian)或(huo)織(zhi)物(wu)時(shi)的(de)(de)感(gan)(gan)覺。纖維(wei)的(de)(de)手感(gan)(gan)受(shou)它的(de)(de)形(xing)(xing)(xing)狀、表(biao)面特點和結構影(ying)響。纖維(wei)形(xing)(xing)(xing)態各(ge)有不同(tong),可以有圓形(xing)(xing)(xing)、扁平形(xing)(xing)(xing)、多(duo)葉形(xing)(xing)(xing)等(deng)(deng)。纖維(wei)表(biao)面也有不同(tong),如光(guang)滑的(de)(de)、鋸齒(chi)狀的(de)(de)或(huo)鱗片狀的(de)(de)。纖維(wei)的(de)(de)外形(xing)(xing)(xing)不是(shi)(shi)卷曲狀就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)直線(xian)(xian)(xian)狀的(de)(de)。紗線(xian)(xian)(xian)類型、織(zhi)物(wu)結構和后整理過程也會影(ying)響織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)手感(gan)(gan)。常用柔軟、滑爽(shuang)、干燥、真絲(si)感(gan)(gan)、剛硬(ying)、粗硬(ying)或(huo)粗糙等(deng)(deng)術語來描述織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)手感(gan)(gan)。
10、光澤
光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤是指纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)表(biao)面對光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)線(xian)的(de)反射(she)。纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)不同特性影(ying)響其(qi)光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤度。光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤的(de)表(biao)面、較少的(de)彎曲(qu)、平坦的(de)斷面形狀以及較長的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長度可(ke)以增(zeng)強光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)線(xian)的(de)反射(she)。纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)織(zhi)造過程(cheng)中的(de)牽伸工序(xu)通過使(shi)其(qi)表(biao)面更加光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)滑來增(zeng)加其(qi)光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤。添加消光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)劑將(jiang)破壞光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)的(de)反射(she),使(shi)光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤下(xia)降。這樣控制添加消光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)劑的(de)用量,就可(ke)制造有光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)、半消光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)和(he)無光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)。織(zhi)物光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤也受(shou)紗線(xian)類型、組織(zhi)和(he)所(suo)有整理(li)的(de)影(ying)響。光(guang)(guang)(guang)(guang)澤的(de)要求將(jiang)取決于流行趨勢和(he)客戶(hu)的(de)需(xu)要。
11、起球
起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)是指織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)些短而斷裂的(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)互相纏結(jie)(jie)成一(yi)(yi)個個小(xiao)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。當纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)末端(duan)從織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)斷裂的(de)(de)(de)時候,絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)就(jiu)形成了,通(tong)常由穿(chuan)著引起(qi)。起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)不是人們所(suo)需要的(de)(de)(de),因為(wei)它(ta)使諸如床單等織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)即(ji)舊又不美觀,并(bing)讓人感覺不舒服。絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)在經(jing)常摩擦的(de)(de)(de)部位產生,例如衣領、袖下部位及袖口邊緣(yuan)。疏(shu)水(shui)(shui)性纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)比親水(shui)(shui)性纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)更(geng)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu),因為(wei)疏(shu)水(shui)(shui)性纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)更(geng)容易(yi)(yi)互相吸引靜電(dian),并(bing)且不易(yi)(yi)從織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)掉(diao)落。絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)很少在100%純棉(mian)襯衫(shan)上(shang)看到,但在穿(chuan)著一(yi)(yi)段時間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)滌棉(mian)混紡的(de)(de)(de)類似(si)襯衫(shan)上(shang)卻非常普遍。羊毛(mao)雖(sui)然有親水(shui)(shui)性,絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)因其鱗片狀表(biao)(biao)面(mian)而產生。纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)彼(bi)此扭(niu)結(jie)(jie)、纏繞,而形成一(yi)(yi)個絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。強度大(da)的(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)容易(yi)(yi)握(wo)持織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。易(yi)(yi)于斷裂的(de)(de)(de)低強度纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei),因絨球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)容易(yi)(yi)掉(diao)落而不易(yi)(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。
12、回彈性
回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)是指材(cai)料在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)被折疊(die)、加捻、扭曲后(hou)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)恢復(fu)的(de)(de)能(neng)力,與褶(zhe)皺恢復(fu)能(neng)力緊密相關。具(ju)有較好(hao)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)織物不易(yi)起皺,因此,容易(yi)保持較好(hao)的(de)(de)外形(xing)。較粗的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)擁(yong)有較好(hao)的(de)(de)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing),因為它具(ju)有較大的(de)(de)質量來吸收應變(bian)。同時(shi)(shi),纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)外形(xing)也影響纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing),圓形(xing)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)比扁(bian)平纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)擁(yong)有更(geng)好(hao)的(de)(de)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)。纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)性(xing)(xing)(xing)質也是一個(ge)因素。聚酯纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)有杰(jie)出(chu)的(de)(de)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing),但棉纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)很差(cha)。因而這兩種纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)經常混用在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)一些產品(pin)中,如男式襯衫、女式寬松上(shang)衣和床(chuang)單等(deng)。如需在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)服裝上(shang)形(xing)成明顯的(de)(de)褶(zhe)皺時(shi)(shi),回(hui)(hui)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)好(hao)的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)就會(hui)有點麻(ma)煩,很容易(yi)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)棉織物或粗膠纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)織物上(shang)形(xing)成折痕,但在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)干燥的(de)(de)羊毛織物上(shang)就不容易(yi)。羊毛纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)耐彎曲和耐褶(zhe)皺,并在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)最后(hou)又(you)能(neng)伸直(zhi)。