二、軋光(Calendering)

軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)整(zheng)理(li)是利(li)用纖維(wei)在濕(shi)熱(re)條件(jian)下(xia)的(de)(de)(de)可(ke)塑性(xing)將織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)表面軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)平(ping)或(huo)軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)出平(ping)行的(de)(de)(de)細密(mi)斜線(xian)(xian)(xian)，以增(zeng)(zeng)進織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)的(de)(de)(de)工藝過程(cheng)。軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)機由若干只(zhi)表面光(guang)(guang)滑的(de)(de)(de)硬(ying)(ying)輥(gun)(gun)(gun)和(he)軟輥(gun)(gun)(gun)組成。硬(ying)(ying)輥(gun)(gun)(gun)為(wei)(wei)金屬輥(gun)(gun)(gun)，表面經過高(gao)度拋光(guang)(guang)或(huo)刻(ke)有密(mi)集的(de)(de)(de)平(ping)行線(xian)(xian)(xian)，常(chang)附有加熱(re)裝置。軟輥(gun)(gun)(gun)為(wei)(wei)纖維(wei)輥(gun)(gun)(gun)或(huo)聚酰胺塑料輥(gun)(gun)(gun)。織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經過更、軟輥(gun)(gun)(gun)組合(he)軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)壓(ya)后，紗線(xian)(xian)(xian)被(bei)壓(ya)扁，表面平(ping)滑，光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)增(zeng)(zeng)強，手(shou)感硬(ying)(ying)挺，稱為(wei)(wei)平(ping)軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)。織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經兩(liang)只(zhi)軟輥(gun)(gun)(gun)組合(he)軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)壓(ya)后，紗線(xian)(xian)(xian)稍(shao)贏(ying)平(ping)，光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)柔祝，手(shou)惑柔軟，礦(kuang)b為(wei)(wei)軟軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)。使用不同鈉(na)匠輥(gun)(gun)(gun)組合(he)和(he)壓(ya)力、溫度、穿引方式的(de)(de)(de)變化，可(ke)得到不同的(de)(de)(de)光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)。軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)整(zheng)理(li)是機械處理(li)，其(qi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)效(xiao)果耐久性(xing)差，如果織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)先浸軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)樹脂初縮(suo)體并(bing)經過預(yu)烘拉(la)幅，軋(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)光(guang)(guang)后可(ke)得到較(jiao)為(wei)(wei)耐久的(de)(de)(de)光(guang)(guang)澤(ze)(ze)(ze)。

三、軋紋(embOSSing)

利用纖(xian)維的(de)可塑性(xing)，以(yi)(yi)一對刻有一定深度(du)花(hua)紋(wen)(wen)的(de)硬(ying)、軟、凹、凸的(de)軋(ya)輥(gun)在(zai)一定的(de)溫(wen)度(du)下軋(ya)壓織物，使其產生凹凸花(hua)紋(wen)(wen)效果的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝過程稱(cheng)為(wei)軋(ya)紋(wen)(wen)整(zheng)理，又稱(cheng)軋(ya)花(hua)整(zheng)理。染色(se)或(huo)印花(hua)后的(de)棉或(huo)滌／棉混紡織物，在(zai)軋(ya)紋(wen)(wen)整(zheng)理中若浸軋(ya)樹脂(zhi)工(gong)(gong)作液，可形成耐(nai)久性(xing)的(de)軋(ya)紋(wen)(wen)效果。合成纖(xian)維織物染色(se)印花(hua)后可直接進行軋(ya)紋(wen)(wen)。以(yi)(yi)刻有凹紋(wen)(wen)的(de)銅輥(gun)作硬(ying)輥(gun)，以(yi)(yi)表面(mian)平整(zheng)的(de)高彈性(xing)橡(xiang)膠(jiao)輥(gun)作軟輥(gun)軋(ya)壓織物的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝，便稱(cheng)拷花(hua)。

四、磨絨、磨毛(Sanding)

用(yong)砂(sha)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)輥(或(huo)帶)將織物表面(mian)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)出一(yi)層短(duan)而(er)密的(de)絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)的(de)工藝過程稱為磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)絨(rong)(rong)整(zheng)理，又稱磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)毛(mao)整(zheng)理。磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)毛(mao)織物具有厚實、柔(rou)軟而(er)溫暖等特性，可(ke)改善織物的(de)服(fu)用(yong)性能(neng)。變形(xing)絲(si)或(huo)高收縮(suo)的(de)滌綸針(zhen)織物或(huo)機(梭)織物磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)毛(mao)后，能(neng)制成一(yi)種仿麂(ji)皮絨(rong)(rong)織物。以(yi)(yi)超(chao)細合(he)成纖維(wei)為原(yuan)料的(de)基布(bu)，經過浸軋(ya)聚氨酯乳(ru)液和磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)毛(mao)，可(ke)獲得(de)具有仿真效果的(de)人造(zao)麂(ji)皮。磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)毛(mao)(或(huo)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)絨(rong)(rong))整(zheng)理的(de)作用(yong)與起(qi)毛(mao)(或(huo)拉絨(rong)(rong))原(yuan)理類似，都是使(shi)織物表面(mian)產生絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)。不同的(de)是，起(qi)毛(mao)整(zheng)理一(yi)般用(yong)金屬針(zhen)布(bu)(毛(mao)紡還有用(yong)刺果的(de))，主(zhu)要是織物的(de)緯(wei)紗起(qi)毛(mao)，且(qie)茸毛(mao)疏而(er)長。磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)絨(rong)(rong)整(zheng)理能(neng)使(shi)經緯(wei)紗向同時產生絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)，且(qie)絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)短(duan)而(er)密。磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)絨(rong)(rong)整(zheng)理要控制織物強力下降幅度，其質量以(yi)(yi)絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)的(de)短(duan)密和均勻程度為主(zhu)要指標。

五、柔軟(softening)

紡織(zhi)品在染整過程中，經各種化(hua)學(xue)(xue)助劑(ji)的濕熱處理并受到機械張(zhang)力等(deng)(deng)作(zuo)用(yong)，往(wang)往(wang)產生(sheng)變(bian)形，而且能引起僵(jiang)硬(ying)和(he)(he)(he)粗糙的手(shou)感(gan)(gan)。柔軟(ruan)(ruan)整理是彌補這(zhe)種缺陷使(shi)織(zhi)物手(shou)感(gan)(gan)柔軟(ruan)(ruan)的加(jia)工(gong)過程。柔軟(ruan)(ruan)整理有機械和(he)(he)(he)化(hua)學(xue)(xue)兩種方法(fa)，機械法(fa)采用(yong)捶布等(deng)(deng)工(gong)藝，使(shi)紗(sha)線或纖維(wei)(wei)間(jian)相互松動(dong)，從而獲得柔軟(ruan)(ruan)效果(guo)。化(hua)學(xue)(xue)法(fa)是用(yong)柔軟(ruan)(ruan)劑(ji)的作(zuo)用(yong)來降低纖維(wei)(wei)間(jian)的摩(mo)擦系數(shu)以(yi)獲得柔軟(ruan)(ruan)效果(guo)。不(bu)(bu)同(tong)的柔軟(ruan)(ruan)劑(ji)所適應的纖維(wei)(wei)及產生(sheng)的柔軟(ruan)(ruan)效果(guo)和(he)(he)(he)對(dui)其他性能的影響也有所不(bu)(bu)同(tong)。化(hua)學(xue)(xue)方法(fa)較為常用(yong)，有時也輔以(yi)機械法(fa)。

六、煮呢(crabbing)

煮(zhu)呢(ni)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)(li)是羊(yang)(yang)毛(mao)(mao)織物(wu)在(zai)張力下(xia)用(yong)熱水浴(yu)處(chu)理(li)(li)(li)，使之平整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)且在(zai)后續濕處(chu)理(li)(li)(li)中不易變(bian)(bian)形的工(gong)藝(yi)過程。煮(zhu)呢(ni)主要用(yong)于精紡毛(mao)(mao)織物(wu)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)(li)，在(zai)燒毛(mao)(mao)或洗呢(ni)后進行。羊(yang)(yang)毛(mao)(mao)在(zai)紡織過程中纖(xian)維受(shou)到外力作用(yong)發生(sheng)各種變(bian)(bian)形，松(song)弛后會產生(sheng)收縮，浸濕時更為(wei)顯著。在(zai)煮(zhu)呢(ni)的熱水浴(yu)過程中，纖(xian)維的分子結構先遭破壞、斷(duan)裂(lie)，再重新生(sheng)成(cheng)更為(wei)穩定的結構，對纖(xian)維起定型(xing)作用(yong)。所以，煮(zhu)呢(ni)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)(li)能使織物(wu)獲得良好(hao)的尺寸穩定性，避免(mian)以后濕加工(gong)時發生(sheng)變(bian)(bian)形、褶皺現(xian)象，手感也有(you)改善。

七、縮(suo)絨(rong)(fulling)

縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)整理是利用羊毛(mao)(mao)氈(zhan)縮(suo)性使(shi)毛(mao)(mao)織(zhi)物緊密厚實并(bing)在表(biao)面形成絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)(mao)的(de)工藝過程，也稱縮(suo)呢。縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)可(ke)(ke)改善織(zhi)物手(shou)感和外觀(guan)，增加其保(bao)暖(nuan)性和手(shou)感等(deng)風格。縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)尤其適(shi)用于粗紡毛(mao)(mao)織(zhi)物等(deng)產品。機織(zhi)物的(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)在滾筒式縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)機上進行，針織(zhi)物的(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)可(ke)(ke)在轉筒或洗衣機等(deng)設備中進行。

八、起毛(raiSing)

起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)整(zheng)理(li)(li)是(shi)用(yong)密集(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)針或(huo)刺(ci)將(jiang)織物(wu)(wu)表層(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)剔起(qi)(qi)(qi)，形(xing)成一層(ceng)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)工藝(yi)過(guo)程，又(you)稱(cheng)拉(la)絨(rong)整(zheng)理(li)(li)。主要用(yong)于(yu)粗紡毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)織物(wu)(wu)、腈綸(lun)織物(wu)(wu)和棉織物(wu)(wu)等。織物(wu)(wu)在干(gan)燥狀態(tai)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)，絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)蓬松而(er)較(jiao)(jiao)短(duan)。濕態(tai)時由于(yu)纖(xian)維(wei)延伸度較(jiao)(jiao)大，表層(ceng)纖(xian)維(wei)易于(yu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)。所以，毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)織物(wu)(wu)噴濕后(hou)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)可(ke)(ke)獲得較(jiao)(jiao)長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)，浸水后(hou)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)則(ze)可(ke)(ke)得到波浪形(xing)長(chang)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)。而(er)棉織物(wu)(wu)只宜用(yong)干(gan)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)。經起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)整(zheng)理(li)(li)后(hou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)層(ceng)可(ke)(ke)提高織物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)保暖性，遮蓋織紋，改善(shan)外觀(guan)，并使手感(gan)豐滿、柔軟(ruan)。將(jiang)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)和剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)工藝(yi)配合，可(ke)(ke)提高織物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)整(zheng)理(li)(li)效果。

九、剪毛(Shearing)

剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)整理是(shi)用剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)機剪去織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表面(mian)(mian)(mian)不(bu)需(xu)要(yao)的(de)茸(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)的(de)工(gong)藝過程。其(qi)目的(de)是(shi)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)織(zhi)紋清(qing)晰(xi)、表面(mian)(mian)(mian)光潔(jie)(jie)，或使(shi)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)、起(qi)絨(rong)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)和絨(rong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)整齊(qi)。一般毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)、絲絨(rong)、人(ren)造毛(mao)(mao)(mao)皮(pi)等產品(pin)，都(dou)需(xu)經剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)工(gong)藝，但(dan)各自的(de)要(yao)求有(you)所不(bu)同。如精紡毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)要(yao)求將表面(mian)(mian)(mian)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)剪去，使(shi)呢面(mian)(mian)(mian)光潔(jie)(jie)，織(zhi)紋清(qing)晰(xi)。而粗紡毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)要(yao)求剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)后，絨(rong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)平整，手感柔軟，尤其(qi)要(yao)把起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)或縮絨(rong)后織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表面(mian)(mian)(mian)參(can)差不(bu)齊(qi)的(de)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)剪平，并保持(chi)一定的(de)長度，使(shi)外觀平整。為了提高剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)效(xiao)果(guo)，可將剪毛(mao)(mao)(mao)和刷毛(mao)(mao)(mao)工(gong)藝配合進

十、蒸呢(decatizing blowing)

蒸(zheng)(zheng)呢(ni)(ni)整理是(shi)利用毛纖維(wei)在濕(shi)熱(re)條件下的(de)定(ding)型性，通過汽蒸(zheng)(zheng)使(shi)毛織(zhi)物(wu)形(xing)態穩定(ding)，手感、光(guang)澤(ze)改善的(de)工藝過程。蒸(zheng)(zheng)呢(ni)(ni)和煮呢(ni)(ni)的(de)原理基本相(xiang)同，但處理方式不同。蒸(zheng)(zheng)呢(ni)(ni)主要(yao)用于毛織(zhi)物(wu)及其混紡產品，也可用于蠶絲、粘膠纖維(wei)等織(zhi)物(wu)。經蒸(zheng)(zheng)呢(ni)(ni)整理后的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)尺寸形(xing)態穩定(ding)，呢(ni)(ni)面平整，光(guang)澤(ze)自(zi)然，手感柔(rou)軟而富(fu)有彈性。

十一、硬挺(ting)(Starching)

織(zhi)物浸涂漿(jiang)(jiang)液(ye)(ye)并烘(hong)干以獲得厚實和(he)硬(ying)(ying)挺效果的(de)工藝(yi)過(guo)程(cheng)，是改善織(zhi)物手感為(wei)(wei)目的(de)的(de)整理(li)(li)方(fang)法。它(ta)利用(yong)具有一(yi)(yi)定粘度的(de)天(tian)然或合成(cheng)的(de)高分子物質制(zhi)成(cheng)的(de)漿(jiang)(jiang)液(ye)(ye)，在織(zhi)物上(shang)形(xing)成(cheng)薄(bo)膜，從而(er)使織(zhi)物獲得平(ping)滑、硬(ying)(ying)挺、厚實、豐滿等手感，并提高其(qi)強力(li)和(he)耐磨性，延(yan)長(chang)使用(yong)壽命。由于整理(li)(li)時所用(yong)的(de)高分子物質一(yi)(yi)般稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)漿(jiang)(jiang)料，故也稱(cheng)上(shang)漿(jiang)(jiang)整理(li)(li)。硬(ying)(ying)挺整理(li)(li)的(de)漿(jiang)(jiang)液(ye)(ye)主要用(yong)漿(jiang)(jiang)料和(he)少(shao)量(liang)防腐劑(ji)配成(cheng)，也可(ke)加入(ru)柔軟劑(ji)、填充劑(ji)或熒光增白(bai)劑(ji)等。根據上(shang)漿(jiang)(jiang)量(liang)的(de)多少(shao)，有輕漿(jiang)(jiang)和(he)重漿(jiang)(jiang)之分。用(yong)纖維素鋅酸鈉漿(jiang)(jiang)液(ye)(ye)浸軋棉織(zhi)物，再經稀酸處(chu)理(li)(li)，使纖維素凝固在織(zhi)物上(shang)，可(ke)取得較為(wei)(wei)耐洗而(er)硬(ying)(ying)挺的(de)仿麻(ma)整理(li)(li)效果。

十二(er)、增重(weighting)

增重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)是使用化學(xue)方法(fa)(fa)使絲(si)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)增加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)量的(de)(de)工藝過程。在(zai)18世紀的(de)(de)歐(ou)洲，為了(le)彌(mi)補真絲(si)綢在(zai)精練(lian)后的(de)(de)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)量損失，曾采用加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)方法(fa)(fa)以維護商業利潤(run)和(he)(he)使用價值。增重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)主要有錫加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)法(fa)(fa)和(he)(he)單寧(ning)加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)法(fa)(fa)。經錫加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)法(fa)(fa)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)的(de)(de)絲(si)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)比重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)增加，手感厚實、滑爽，光澤豐潤(run)，懸垂性增加，吸(xi)濕后的(de)(de)收縮(suo)率減少(shao)乙處理(li)(li)一次可(ke)(ke)增重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)20％，反復(fu)處理(li)(li)，增重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)量可(ke)(ke)達100％。但經增重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)后的(de)(de)絲(si)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)強(qiang)度(du)、伸長和(he)(he)耐磨牢(lao)度(du)都有所下降，且不利儲存，日光曝曬后更易脆損。如整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)后經肥皂或合成洗(xi)滌劑處理(li)(li)去除附著表面的(de)(de)錫鹽，可(ke)(ke)減輕(qing)脆化。單寧(ning)加重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)法(fa)(fa)因單寧(ning)遇鐵鹽變為黑(hei)色(se)而不適宜于白色(se)和(he)(he)淺色(se)絲(si)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)整(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)理(li)(li)。

十三、減重(deweighting)

減(jian)(jian)重整(zheng)理是利用滌綸在(zai)較(jiao)高的(de)(de)溫度和(he)一定濃度苛性堿(jian)溶液中產(chan)生的(de)(de)水(shui)解作用，使纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)逐步溶蝕，織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)重量減(jian)(jian)輕(失重一般控制在(zai)20％～25％)，并在(zai)表(biao)面形(xing)成若干(gan)凹陷(xian)，使纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)表(biao)面的(de)(de)反(fan)射光呈(cheng)現漫射，形(xing)成柔(rou)和(he)的(de)(de)光澤，同時紗線中纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)的(de)(de)間(jian)隙增(zeng)大(da)，從而形(xing)成真絲(si)(si)綢(chou)風格(ge)(外(wai)觀和(he)手感)的(de)(de)工藝過程，又(you)稱減(jian)(jian)量或堿(jian)減(jian)(jian)量整(zheng)理。滌綸長絲(si)(si)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)經整(zheng)理后，光澤柔(rou)和(he)，輕盈柔(rou)軟，懸垂性能大(da)為改善，可制成仿喬(qiao)其、雙(shuang)縐等(deng)仿絲(si)(si)綢(chou)產(chan)品。滌綸短纖(xian)(xian)及(ji)其混紡紗線與緯長絲(si)(si)交織(zhi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)經整(zheng)理后，平挺(ting)滑(hua)爽，也可獲(huo)得(de)類似效果。

目前，減(jian)重整理主要是指減(jian)輕滌(di)(di)綸(lun)纖維在織物中的(de)重量。實際上，其他纖維織物采用適(shi)當的(de)化(hua)學晶進行部(bu)分溶(rong)蝕也(ye)屬減(jian)量整理的(de)范(fan)疇。例如(ru)滌(di)(di)綸(lun)和(he)棉(mian)(mian)或(huo)粘膠(jiao)混紡織物，用65％以上冷硫(liu)酸(suan)溶(rong)液處理后(hou)，使棉(mian)(mian)或(huo)粘膠(jiao)完全溶(rong)蝕，同樣使產品風格產生明顯的(de)改變。這(zhe)種減(jian)量整理，習慣卜稱為酸(suan)減(jian)量。

十四、煮呢(crabbing)

煮呢(ni)整(zheng)理是羊(yang)毛(mao)織物在(zai)(zai)張(zhang)力下用(yong)熱水(shui)浴處理，使之平整(zheng)且在(zai)(zai)后(hou)續濕(shi)處理中不(bu)易(yi)變(bian)形的(de)工藝過程。煮呢(ni)主要用(yong)于精紡(fang)(fang)毛(mao)織物整(zheng)理，在(zai)(zai)燒毛(mao)或洗呢(ni)后(hou)進行。羊(yang)毛(mao)在(zai)(zai)紡(fang)(fang)織過程中纖(xian)維受到(dao)外(wai)力作用(yong)發生(sheng)各種變(bian)形，松(song)弛后(hou)會(hui)產生(sheng)收縮，浸濕(shi)時(shi)更為顯著。在(zai)(zai)煮呢(ni)的(de)熱水(shui)浴過程中，纖(xian)維的(de)分子結構先(xian)遭破壞、斷裂(lie)，再重新生(sheng)成更為穩(wen)定的(de)結構，對(dui)纖(xian)維起定型作用(yong)。所以，煮呢(ni)整(zheng)理能使織物獲得良(liang)好的(de)尺寸(cun)穩(wen)定性，避免以后(hou)濕(shi)加(jia)工時(shi)發生(sheng)變(bian)形、褶皺現象，手感也有改善。

十五(wu)、縮絨(fulling)

縮(suo)絨(rong)整理(li)是利用羊毛(mao)氈縮(suo)性(xing)使毛(mao)織物緊密厚實并在表面(mian)形成(cheng)絨(rong)毛(mao)的工(gong)藝過程，也稱縮(suo)呢。縮(suo)絨(rong)可(ke)改善織物手(shou)感和外觀，增加其保暖性(xing)和手(shou)感等風(feng)格。縮(suo)絨(rong)尤其適用于粗紡(fang)毛(mao)織物等產品。機(ji)織物的縮(suo)絨(rong)在滾(gun)筒(tong)(tong)式縮(suo)絨(rong)機(ji)上(shang)進行，針織物的縮(suo)絨(rong)可(ke)在轉筒(tong)(tong)或(huo)洗(xi)衣機(ji)等設備中進行。

十六、起毛(mao)(raiSing)

起(qi)(qi)毛整(zheng)(zheng)理是用(yong)(yong)密集的(de)針或刺將織物(wu)(wu)表層(ceng)的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)剔起(qi)(qi)，形(xing)成一層(ceng)絨(rong)毛的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)過程(cheng)，又稱(cheng)拉絨(rong)整(zheng)(zheng)理。主要用(yong)(yong)于粗紡毛織物(wu)(wu)、腈綸織物(wu)(wu)和(he)棉織物(wu)(wu)等。織物(wu)(wu)在干(gan)燥狀(zhuang)態起(qi)(qi)毛，絨(rong)毛蓬松而較短(duan)。濕態時由于纖(xian)維(wei)延(yan)伸度較大，表層(ceng)纖(xian)維(wei)易于起(qi)(qi)毛。所以，毛織物(wu)(wu)噴濕后起(qi)(qi)毛可(ke)(ke)獲得較長的(de)絨(rong)毛，浸水(shui)后起(qi)(qi)毛則可(ke)(ke)得到波浪形(xing)長絨(rong)毛。而棉織物(wu)(wu)只宜用(yong)(yong)干(gan)起(qi)(qi)毛。經起(qi)(qi)毛整(zheng)(zheng)理后的(de)絨(rong)毛層(ceng)可(ke)(ke)提高織物(wu)(wu)的(de)保暖(nuan)性，遮(zhe)蓋(gai)織紋，改善外觀，并使(shi)手感豐滿、柔軟(ruan)。將起(qi)(qi)毛和(he)剪毛工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)配(pei)合，可(ke)(ke)提高織物(wu)(wu)的(de)整(zheng)(zheng)理效果。

十(shi)七、剪毛(Shearing)

剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)整(zheng)理是用剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)機剪(jian)去(qu)(qu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)不需(xu)要(yao)的(de)(de)茸毛(mao)(mao)(mao)的(de)(de)工(gong)(gong)藝過程。其(qi)目的(de)(de)是使(shi)(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)紋(wen)清(qing)晰(xi)(xi)、表(biao)面(mian)(mian)光(guang)潔，或使(shi)(shi)起毛(mao)(mao)(mao)、起絨(rong)(rong)(rong)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)和絨(rong)(rong)(rong)面(mian)(mian)整(zheng)齊。一般毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)、絲絨(rong)(rong)(rong)、人造毛(mao)(mao)(mao)皮等產品，都需(xu)經剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)工(gong)(gong)藝，但各自(zi)的(de)(de)要(yao)求有(you)所不同(tong)。如精(jing)紡毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)要(yao)求將表(biao)面(mian)(mian)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)剪(jian)去(qu)(qu)，使(shi)(shi)呢面(mian)(mian)光(guang)潔，織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)紋(wen)清(qing)晰(xi)(xi)。而粗(cu)紡毛(mao)(mao)(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)要(yao)求剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)后，絨(rong)(rong)(rong)面(mian)(mian)平(ping)整(zheng)，手感柔(rou)軟，尤其(qi)要(yao)把起毛(mao)(mao)(mao)或縮絨(rong)(rong)(rong)后織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)參差不齊的(de)(de)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)剪(jian)平(ping)，并保持一定的(de)(de)長度，使(shi)(shi)外觀(guan)平(ping)整(zheng)。為(wei)了提高剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)效果，可將剪(jian)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)和刷毛(mao)(mao)(mao)工(gong)(gong)藝配合(he)進(jin)

十八、蒸呢(decatizing blowing)

蒸(zheng)呢(ni)整(zheng)理(li)是(shi)利用毛纖維在濕熱條件(jian)下的定型性，通過(guo)汽蒸(zheng)使(shi)毛織(zhi)(zhi)物形(xing)態穩定，手感(gan)、光澤改善的工藝過(guo)程。蒸(zheng)呢(ni)和煮呢(ni)的原理(li)基(ji)本相同，但處理(li)方式不(bu)同。蒸(zheng)呢(ni)主(zhu)要(yao)用于(yu)毛織(zhi)(zhi)物及其混紡產品，也可用于(yu)蠶絲、粘膠纖維等織(zhi)(zhi)物。經蒸(zheng)呢(ni)整(zheng)理(li)后的織(zhi)(zhi)物尺寸形(xing)態穩定，呢(ni)面平整(zheng)，光澤自然，手感(gan)柔軟(ruan)而(er)富有彈性。

十九、壓(ya)呢(pressing)

壓(ya)(ya)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)整理(li)是在(zai)(zai)濕熱(re)條件下以機械加(jia)壓(ya)(ya)使毛織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)平整，增進光澤(ze)(ze)，改善(shan)手(shou)感(gan)的(de)(de)工(gong)藝過程，近似于(yu)其他織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)軋光整理(li)。但(dan)壓(ya)(ya)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)常用于(yu)精紡毛織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)整理(li)。壓(ya)(ya)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)的(de)(de)方式(shi)有(you)回轉式(shi)壓(ya)(ya)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)(又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)燙(tang)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)或(huo)熱(re)壓(ya)(ya))和(he)紙板(ban)電熱(re)壓(ya)(ya)呢(ni)(ni)(ni)(又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)電壓(ya)(ya))兩種。前者通過擠(ji)壓(ya)(ya)和(he)摩擦將織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)熨燙(tang)平整，并(bing)賦(fu)以光澤(ze)(ze)。織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)伸長小，生產(chan)率高，但(dan)效(xiao)果(guo)不(bu)持久。且由于(yu)處理(li)后的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)帶有(you)強烈的(de)(de)光澤(ze)(ze)，故常在(zai)(zai)蒸呢(ni)(ni)(ni)前進行。后者大(da)(da)多用于(yu)精紡織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)，尤其是薄型精紡織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)最后一(yi)道加(jia)工(gong)工(gong)序。整理(li)時(shi)毛織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)分層折疊，中(zhong)間夾人硬質光紙板(ban)和(he)電熱(re)紙板(ban)，然后在(zai)(zai)一(yi)定的(de)(de)條件下通過液壓(ya)(ya)機加(jia)壓(ya)(ya)完成(cheng)。電壓(ya)(ya)后的(de)(de)毛織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表面平整挺括，光澤(ze)(ze)柔和(he)，手(shou)感(gan)柔軟潤滑，并(bing)有(you)暫時(shi)性(xing)效(xiao)果(guo)，但(dan)其設備龐(pang)大(da)(da)，生產(chan)率低(di)。

二十、防氈縮(suo)(antifelting)

防(fang)止(zhi)或減少毛(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)物在(zai)洗滌和服用中(zhong)收縮(suo)(suo)變形，使(shi)服裝(zhuang)尺寸穩定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)工藝過程(cheng)稱防(fang)氈(zhan)縮(suo)(suo)整理(li)。毛(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)物的(de)(de)(de)氈(zhan)縮(suo)(suo)是由于(yu)羊(yang)毛(mao)具有(you)的(de)(de)(de)鱗片(pian)在(zai)濕態時(shi)有(you)較大的(de)(de)(de)延伸性和回彈性，以(yi)(yi)致在(zai)洗滌搓(cuo)擠后(hou)容(rong)易產(chan)生(sheng)氈(zhan)狀收縮(suo)(suo)。故防(fang)氈(zhan)縮(suo)(suo)整理(li)的(de)(de)(de)原理(li)是用化學(xue)方法局部浸蝕鱗片(pian)，改變其表面狀態，或在(zai)其表面覆蓋(gai)一層聚(ju)合物，以(yi)(yi)及使(shi)纖維(wei)交織(zhi)(zhi)點粘著，從而去除產(chan)生(sheng)氈(zhan)縮(suo)(suo)的(de)(de)(de)基礎(chu)。防(fang)氈(zhan)縮(suo)(suo)整理(li)織(zhi)(zhi)物能達到規定(ding)水平的(de)(de)(de)，稱為超級(ji)耐洗毛(mao)織(zhi)(zhi)物。